An invitation that says black tie or white tie is asking for something specific. The two are often confused, yet they are quite different, and turning up in the wrong one is noticed. Here is what each means and how to dress for it with confidence.
White tie: the most formal dress code
White tie is reserved for state banquets, royal occasions, grand balls and the most traditional evening weddings. It is the full evening dress of the nineteenth century, and its rules have barely changed since.
- Tailcoat: a black (or midnight navy) evening tailcoat, cut short at the front and falling to two tails at the back. It is worn open.
- Waistcoat: traditionally white, low-cut, and never longer than the front of the coat.
- Trousers: matching the coat, with two lines of braid down the outer leg.
- Shirt and tie: a white wing-collar shirt and a white bow tie.
- Shoes: black patent leather.
The proportion matters more than anything: the waistcoat must not show below the coat, and the trousers should sit high enough that no shirt appears between them and the waistcoat. A well-cut tailcoat does most of this work for you.
Black tie: evening formal
Black tie is the dress code of galas, formal dinners, award evenings and many weddings. It is still elegant, but less ceremonial.
- Dinner jacket (tuxedo): single or double-breasted, with satin or grosgrain peak or shawl lapels. Black and midnight navy are classic; velvet in burgundy or emerald is a confident winter choice.
- Trousers: matching, with a single braid down the leg.
- Shirt and tie: a white dress shirt with a turn-down collar and a black bow tie.
- Waistcoat or cummerbund: optional, but a low-cut waistcoat adds polish.
Browse our tuxedos and dinner suits for every shade from classic black to rich velvet.
Quick comparison
- Coat: white tie calls for a tailcoat; black tie calls for a dinner jacket.
- Bow tie: white for white tie, black for black tie.
- Waistcoat: required (white) for white tie; optional for black tie.
- Occasion: white tie for state and court events, grand balls and very formal weddings; black tie for galas, dinners and evening receptions.
When the invitation says “black tie optional”
A dinner jacket is still the best choice, but a dark, well-tailored suit with a smart tie is acceptable. If you are the groom or part of the wedding party, always choose the more formal option.
Getting the fit right
Formal evening wear is unforgiving of a poor fit. Every Valenfold piece is available in standard sizes or made to your own measurements. Our size guide explains how to measure yourself in a few minutes.